A documentary by Jeremy Gosch that was featured a while back on Nowness to celebrate the 2009 Surfing America USA Championships. I can’t take my eyes off this video.

I did some surfing this summer & there is something inherently hypnotic about the sport to begin with. Whether it engaged the part of my brain that reasons that the minute you give up & go in is the minute your wave rolls in, or the part of all of us that burns to engage with an element that we matter little or nothing to just to say we’ve felt it, there’s something that always keeps me out there much longer than my screaming & aching body wants to.